We’re gonna need a bigger boat

I realise that many people who read the Misssy M Misssives are in far flung parts of the world and come from diverse walks of life. Hello all diverse international lovelies sitting at home wherever you are with your Scots English dictionary at the ready. Conversely I realise that many others are from my local area of Aberdeen. “Fit like?” The folk of Aberdeen are, in the main, oil folks. If they aren’t oil folks they are farming folks. And if they are not farm folks, they are fish folks. And if they are none of these things they are related to oil, fish or farm folks in some way, or know some socially at the very least. Oil folks, fish folks and farm folks are hard, and all of those camps will think me a jessie for the tale I am about to tell. So I turn to my other readers to defend me when I come across like a total big girl’s blouse.
I am in Canada for work, and it’s not going well.
I don’t really want to go into the whys and wherefores but my journey to Canada took twenty three hours, when it shoud have take seven. Our arranged arrival time on the vessel we were filming on should have been 12.45pm. Instead it was 12 midnight. I know those sums don’t add up. But this is called dramatic effect. And there’s time differences involved so the laws of time and space are irrelevant.
We arrive in Halifax aiport and no-one is there to meet us. We are so knackered that me and my cameraman, once a wisecracking duo a few hours ago, are now only speaking to each other in monosyllabic grunts and limp-wristed hand gestures.
Instead of being collected at the airport, which I’ve got to tell you would have been nice at this juncture, we are informed by phone to take a taxi to an empty car park. Think the opening scene of The Usual Suspects, where Kaiser Soze kills Gabriel Byrne at the port in the middle of the night.
“Are you sure you’ve to be dropped off in an empty carpark at midnight in the pouring rain? That doesn’t seem terribly safe,” says our middle aged taxi driver.
My thoughts exactly, my friend.
“Apparently we’ve to find a Portakabin,”I say.
“I’m gonna hang around and make sure you guys find it before I drive off, okay” This guy is the reverse-Travis Bickle. I think I love him.
Sure enough we find a Portakabin at the edge of an unlit quayside carpark. It is “dingin doon”. My hair is plastered to my face, occasionally it is whipped by strong winds to lash my ruddy, rain-battered, puffy, jet-lagged face. There is probably mascara running down my cheeks that I applied what would have been yesterday. I am awake all of a sudden.
This is my cameraman’s first trip “offshore”. He is mentally phoning the Job Centre.
This being our first trip away with one another, my cameraman and I have recently had that “What’s your favourite film” type conversation. Jaws has been mentioned. We may have even acted out the scene where Captain Quint and Richard Dreyfus compare scars. “Fairwell and adieu, you fair Spanish ladies….” We will soon regret this.
Once in the Portakabin a guy that definately is a Lord of the Rings fan signs us in and asks us to put on lifejackets. I think of that last scene in LOTRs where all the dead characters go to Hobbit Heaven in a boat. I think that guy was thinking the same, but only cos he’s constantly running the trilogy in his head on a loop.
A little boat arrives and our very own Captain Quint takes our stuff onboard. The rain has reached Biblical proportions. I am Captain Brodie. Suddenly I don’t like the water so much. I don’t know if we’re supposed to, as the boat is mostly open, but we cram ourselves into the tiny bridgey control area where Quint and his pal, Salty Joe, are stashed. Quint says some stuff but we don’t understand a word as it’s in Seadog.
He is probably saying “Get out of my bridgey control area, mongrels.”
In my head he’s saying this; “Here’s to swimmin’ with bow legged wimmin!”
I might even say “Aye Aye Capt’n!” as I am delirious by this point.

Captain Quint and Salty Joe carry on making the boat work and eventually after a journey during which me and my companion exchange the whisper, “They look like cold blooded killers…”, we suddenly stop in the water and are shouted at a something we don’t understand in seaman’s language.

We grab our kit and go out onto the deck hoping that the shouted something wasn’t “Shark attack!” It is not. In front of us is a massive jack-up rig, jacked up very high indeed. One question pops into our heads, “How do we get up there?” One answer swings back down on the end of a wire. The answer is a Billy Pugh.

A Billy Pugh is a Personnel Transport System, but that’s being too kind. You know the bit at the end of Mousetrap (the boardgame, not the long running West End murder mystery play) where the mouse gets caught in a domed cage? Well a Billy Pugh looks like that but has a bottom to it. For those with deep interest (or suspicion that I’m making this stuff up) you can see what I mean by going to www.BillyPugh.com where a man who sounds like, and may even be, Bill Clinton tells you how safe they are in a very unconvincing way. There is NOTHING safe about a Billy Pugh. I realise I’m opening myself up to litigation with that comment. Note I will counter sue for Post Traumatic Stress Syndrome. Let’s just drop it, shall we, lads?

We get in to the Billy Pugh (which may or may not be named after someone called Billy Pugh) through vertical slits in the net that surrounds it. I notice briefly that there are closing straps that I imagine are designed to secure the gaping holes in the net so that we don’t fall out to our watery deaths. As soon as I notice these unclosed straps, we are abruptly hoisted into mid air with absolutely no warning. I grab onto something and hope to God it’s attached to the Billy Pugh and is not my poor cameraman who is now mentally applying to be a trolley-jockey at Walmart.
I am not afraid of heights, however I am afraid of falling from one through a gaping hole in a flimsy net that is all there is between me and the Atlantic. The wind is up, my hair and clothes are soaked by horizontal rain (I don’t have a rainjacket, I am an idiot. But neither does my companion, so he’s one too), I look like crap, the Atlantic smells like crap, so I reckon no-one will notice if I actually crap myself. If I do it in time I can kick it out the bottom of my trousers into the Altlantic through the gaping hole.
I do not crap myself. And if I did I wouldn’t admit it here. All I can think of is, “My Mum would have a fit if she saw me in this.”
By the time we land on the vessel, I am laughing like a demented loon. I sign myself in the visitors log as “Mary Queen of Scots” and go down to my cabin for a wee cry.
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May 15, 2009. boats, Captain Quint, danger money, Jaws, scared, work. Leave a comment.

Snorkelling for girrrlllss


It’s the Last Last Lanta Blog

I have an announcement to make. I am acquiring a Thai bride. She doesn’t know it yet but she’s coming home with me.

This is the Lady who gave me my first ever Thai massage and I want to take her back to the ‘deen with me. For quite a wee lady she was able to hoist me into the air with her feet. Absolutely incredible.

I have only had one decent massage before at the Kandalama Hotel in Sri lanka. Before that point I never saw the fuss. The Kandalama experience was one of pure luxury with fresh white cotton towels and proper professional massage beds with a hole for your face and a clay basin in your line of vision with a beautiful lotus flower in it, for your viewing pleasure.

But this was even better. Here I am getting the best massage ever in a bamboo bed on a beach. No white towels, no lotus flower, just me, my new best friend and her entire family having their dinner next to us.

John had been for one the day before and put the fear of God into me. “It’s quite sore actually, she kept on telling me to relax but she was crushing my legs with her entire body weight…”

But this is the equivalent of the difference between actual flu and man flu. Actual flu is a horrible, debilitating genuine illness; man flu is a slight cold that induces the male recipient to whine like a baby as if he had actual flu. The massage was just firm- deep tissue massage, I think they call it. So deep-tissue, that the woman’s elbows pressed into my back stick out the other side of my body. But sore it wasn’t. I was so relaxed that I feared I might dribble or snore, or worse, release and involuntary fart into the atmosphere.

I am never going to waste my money on a massage from Oldmeldrum’s “Bees Knees” beauty salon again. An Aberdeen College Beauty Therapy graduate whose idea of a massage is to absent-mindedly rub some lavender oil into your shoulders for ten minutes whilst she plays a new age whale noise tape isn’t going to cut it any more. I want to be elbowed, walked on and hoisted aloft. This woman even massaged my ears for goodness sake!

The other thing of note that has happened in the last couple of days is our boat trip to Koh Phi Phi.

Koh Phi Phi is the former unspoilt paradise, discovered by many a tourist and backpacker and now thoroughly spoiled. But you can’t have it all ways. There are two islands in Phi Phi, Phi Phi Don and Phi Phi Lei. Phi Phi Don is like Benidorm and Phi Pi Lei is like heaven, having been preserved as a National Marine Park. No houses can be built there and you can only visit on a day trip, which is what we did. Phi Phi Lei is also the film set of “The Beach” and as such now attracts more visitors than before, hoping to have a wee personal slice of paradise.

Our first port of call was indeed “The Beach” which is indeed lovely and instantly recognisable as the beach that de Caprio et al gambolled along. But of course now it is lined with twenty boat cruisers like ours. But the good thing is that you can only swim to get there, so that you can’t take a heap of snacks, water bottles and rubbish to leave there to last for all eternity like people seem to do on other beaches, so the sand is pristine. We didn’t go straight to the beach but moored in the deeper sea beside it and snorkelled which was fantastic. There were hundreds of brightly coloured fish, it was like “Finding Nemo” down there! They would all mill around you in shoals, centimetres from your face. Just wonderful.

John had given me an underwater disposable camera but unable to chew gum and walk at the same time, snorkeling and using an unfamiliar camera proved too much for me and I think I have broken it, so may not have photos of me and Louis pretending to be Don and Valerie Taylor (the divers filmmakers in Jaws). Still not everything has to be recorded. Put it like this; I think I will remember this for a long time, so who needs photos?

The thing about snorkeling is that when you see something you forget that you can’t shriek “Look! Look! Louis! An Angel fish!!!” without drowning yourself. I found this hard to get over and frequently snorted water up my nose in my excitement. Definitely going to learn to dive at one point. I can see why it’s so addictive. Memories of that film, “Open Water” aside……

Then we sailed on to “Monkey Beach” named after the fat baboon like beasts that hump in front of you with abandonment for your entertainment. We’ve seen monkey behaviour before to the max in Sri Lanka, where we had to endure a pornographic monkey display on our hotel room balcony. The memory of it still makes me gag, but I can’t go into why- just too revolting. Will get me banned from the blog site.

So we let the hoardes of Swedes taunt the monkeys with bananas whilst we snorkeled some more. Getting onto the beach was an ordeal though. We had to swim quite some way from the boat. Louis is getting to be quite a good swimmer and I was confident he would make it. I would take Eve with her armbands on, on my back. John however, can swim but in his head believes he cannot, which is a problem.

John didn’t learn to swim until he was in his twenties. As a kid his Mum nearly bankrupted herself paying for thousands upon thousands of lessons. But John was the swimming equivalent of that Maureen from “Driving School”, no matter how much tuition he got, he still couldn’t do it. I even tried to teach him, but he had no confidence and just couldn’t manage a length.

However, one night on our first ever holiday together in Corfu, Joe , an Army PT instructor living at our resort discovers that John can’t swim and makes it his mission to teach him. Being a bit of a one, Joe doesn’t wait til the next day to put together a carefully constructed programme of swimming exercises. No; Joe is a British squaddie . John must learn to swim NOW!

John however has tanned a bottle of Metaxa Brandy that we won in a pub quiz, that no-one else could stomach. John is very pissed. He may even have been sick at one point, I can’t remember. Joe dodsn’t care- he orders John into the pool and doesn’t let him out until he can swim like a fish. Job done. We are forever in Joe’s debt. Even though John nearly died.

That’s over fifteen years ago and John can swim pretty well, but he still doesn’t rate his ability. He also panics a bit as I lower Eve into the water. In my mind, Eve goes down the ladder first and floats for a couple of seconds with her arm bands, until I get in and position her on my back, ready for the swim ahead. John jumps in the water, for some reason wanting to get in before Eve, and duly jumps on her, knocking her off the ladder. Eve is crying hysterically.

I now have to swim half a mile with a screeching, terrified three year old who refuses to go onto my back but instead acts as a lead weight at my front, clinging tightly round my windpipe as I try to swim to the shore. There was a point where I really thought, “I have to do this, if I can’t do this, we’re both dead.” But I made it, but only because I let go of her and then took her hand and made her swim alongside me, making my job a hundred times easier…and effectively saving both our lives.

Meanwhile, John is having his own personal nightmare as he thinks too much about not being able to make the distance coupled with the responsibility of having to save Louis, should he start to fail. The distance feels so much longer than it looked from the boat. But after considerable self-doubt, he made it and Louis is a swimming god.

Nevertheless, John is freaked out by the whole thing and pays a guy to canoe him and Eve back almost immediately. He was so grateful for the guy in the canoe that I think he might have paid him half his annual salary. Where’s Joe when you need him?

Other news, there’s a snake loose at the Kaw Kwang Beach Resort! The excitement! We gather round to watch as some of the waiters try to coax the poor bugger out of the palm that it has tried to escape into with broom handles. But never fear, as some Swedish blokes are clearly snake catching experts and shout helpful advice like “You need a net!”, “You’re not doing it right!”, and “No, do it this way!”

April 12, 2007. beach, boats, Phi Phi, snakes, snorkeling, swimming, thailand trips. Leave a comment.

Snorkelling for girrrlllss


It’s the Last Last Lanta Blog

I have an announcement to make. I am acquiring a Thai bride. She doesn’t know it yet but she’s coming home with me.

This is the Lady who gave me my first ever Thai massage and I want to take her back to the ‘deen with me. For quite a wee lady she was able to hoist me into the air with her feet. Absolutely incredible.

I have only had one decent massage before at the Kandalama Hotel in Sri lanka. Before that point I never saw the fuss. The Kandalama experience was one of pure luxury with fresh white cotton towels and proper professional massage beds with a hole for your face and a clay basin in your line of vision with a beautiful lotus flower in it, for your viewing pleasure.

But this was even better. Here I am getting the best massage ever in a bamboo bed on a beach. No white towels, no lotus flower, just me, my new best friend and her entire family having their dinner next to us.

John had been for one the day before and put the fear of God into me. “It’s quite sore actually, she kept on telling me to relax but she was crushing my legs with her entire body weight…”

But this is the equivalent of the difference between actual flu and man flu. Actual flu is a horrible, debilitating genuine illness; man flu is a slight cold that induces the male recipient to whine like a baby as if he had actual flu. The massage was just firm- deep tissue massage, I think they call it. So deep-tissue, that the woman’s elbows pressed into my back stick out the other side of my body. But sore it wasn’t. I was so relaxed that I feared I might dribble or snore, or worse, release and involuntary fart into the atmosphere.

I am never going to waste my money on a massage from Oldmeldrum’s “Bees Knees” beauty salon again. An Aberdeen College Beauty Therapy graduate whose idea of a massage is to absent-mindedly rub some lavender oil into your shoulders for ten minutes whilst she plays a new age whale noise tape isn’t going to cut it any more. I want to be elbowed, walked on and hoisted aloft. This woman even massaged my ears for goodness sake!

The other thing of note that has happened in the last couple of days is our boat trip to Koh Phi Phi.

Koh Phi Phi is the former unspoilt paradise, discovered by many a tourist and backpacker and now thoroughly spoiled. But you can’t have it all ways. There are two islands in Phi Phi, Phi Phi Don and Phi Phi Lei. Phi Phi Don is like Benidorm and Phi Pi Lei is like heaven, having been preserved as a National Marine Park. No houses can be built there and you can only visit on a day trip, which is what we did. Phi Phi Lei is also the film set of “The Beach” and as such now attracts more visitors than before, hoping to have a wee personal slice of paradise.

Our first port of call was indeed “The Beach” which is indeed lovely and instantly recognisable as the beach that de Caprio et al gambolled along. But of course now it is lined with twenty boat cruisers like ours. But the good thing is that you can only swim to get there, so that you can’t take a heap of snacks, water bottles and rubbish to leave there to last for all eternity like people seem to do on other beaches, so the sand is pristine. We didn’t go straight to the beach but moored in the deeper sea beside it and snorkelled which was fantastic. There were hundreds of brightly coloured fish, it was like “Finding Nemo” down there! They would all mill around you in shoals, centimetres from your face. Just wonderful.

John had given me an underwater disposable camera but unable to chew gum and walk at the same time, snorkeling and using an unfamiliar camera proved too much for me and I think I have broken it, so may not have photos of me and Louis pretending to be Don and Valerie Taylor (the divers filmmakers in Jaws). Still not everything has to be recorded. Put it like this; I think I will remember this for a long time, so who needs photos?

The thing about snorkeling is that when you see something you forget that you can’t shriek “Look! Look! Louis! An Angel fish!!!” without drowning yourself. I found this hard to get over and frequently snorted water up my nose in my excitement. Definitely going to learn to dive at one point. I can see why it’s so addictive. Memories of that film, “Open Water” aside……

Then we sailed on to “Monkey Beach” named after the fat baboon like beasts that hump in front of you with abandonment for your entertainment. We’ve seen monkey behaviour before to the max in Sri Lanka, where we had to endure a pornographic monkey display on our hotel room balcony. The memory of it still makes me gag, but I can’t go into why- just too revolting. Will get me banned from the blog site.

So we let the hoardes of Swedes taunt the monkeys with bananas whilst we snorkeled some more. Getting onto the beach was an ordeal though. We had to swim quite some way from the boat. Louis is getting to be quite a good swimmer and I was confident he would make it. I would take Eve with her armbands on, on my back. John however, can swim but in his head believes he cannot, which is a problem.

John didn’t learn to swim until he was in his twenties. As a kid his Mum nearly bankrupted herself paying for thousands upon thousands of lessons. But John was the swimming equivalent of that Maureen from “Driving School”, no matter how much tuition he got, he still couldn’t do it. I even tried to teach him, but he had no confidence and just couldn’t manage a length.

However, one night on our first ever holiday together in Corfu, Joe , an Army PT instructor living at our resort discovers that John can’t swim and makes it his mission to teach him. Being a bit of a one, Joe doesn’t wait til the next day to put together a carefully constructed programme of swimming exercises. No; Joe is a British squaddie . John must learn to swim NOW!

John however has tanned a bottle of Metaxa Brandy that we won in a pub quiz, that no-one else could stomach. John is very pissed. He may even have been sick at one point, I can’t remember. Joe dodsn’t care- he orders John into the pool and doesn’t let him out until he can swim like a fish. Job done. We are forever in Joe’s debt. Even though John nearly died.

That’s over fifteen years ago and John can swim pretty well, but he still doesn’t rate his ability. He also panics a bit as I lower Eve into the water. In my mind, Eve goes down the ladder first and floats for a couple of seconds with her arm bands, until I get in and position her on my back, ready for the swim ahead. John jumps in the water, for some reason wanting to get in before Eve, and duly jumps on her, knocking her off the ladder. Eve is crying hysterically.

I now have to swim half a mile with a screeching, terrified three year old who refuses to go onto my back but instead acts as a lead weight at my front, clinging tightly round my windpipe as I try to swim to the shore. There was a point where I really thought, “I have to do this, if I can’t do this, we’re both dead.” But I made it, but only because I let go of her and then took her hand and made her swim alongside me, making my job a hundred times easier…and effectively saving both our lives.

Meanwhile, John is having his own personal nightmare as he thinks too much about not being able to make the distance coupled with the responsibility of having to save Louis, should he start to fail. The distance feels so much longer than it looked from the boat. But after considerable self-doubt, he made it and Louis is a swimming god.

Nevertheless, John is freaked out by the whole thing and pays a guy to canoe him and Eve back almost immediately. He was so grateful for the guy in the canoe that I think he might have paid him half his annual salary. Where’s Joe when you need him?

Other news, there’s a snake loose at the Kaw Kwang Beach Resort! The excitement! We gather round to watch as some of the waiters try to coax the poor bugger out of the palm that it has tried to escape into with broom handles. But never fear, as some Swedish blokes are clearly snake catching experts and shout helpful advice like “You need a net!”, “You’re not doing it right!”, and “No, do it this way!”

April 12, 2007. beach, boats, Phi Phi, snakes, snorkeling, swimming, thailand trips. Leave a comment.

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